The club race various forms of electric radio control cars. Over the years the type of car that has proven popular at the club has changed, but we organise races for anyone that comes along with a 1/10th scale or smaller electric radio control car.
What is costs to race at DDRCC, click here.
Here are some details of the cars we run:
GT12 Circuit Racing
These are by far the most popular form of racing at the club. If you are interested in radio control cars, and you have a budget of about £350 (2nd hand equipment will be much cheaper), then GT12 Racing is for you. These cars have simple flat pan chassis’, but come with a motor, speed controller and either 4 cells or 1s lipo for approx. £100. The cars are raced nearly standard, which results in very close racing, as the only difference is in driver ability. There are various types of GT12 cars available, but underneath they have similair components. The only difference being the body shell, and the way it is mounted. At his time you can choose from a wide selection, anything from a GT car such as an Ascari, Exige or Porsche, as well Fiesta's, Escorts, Tigra's, Golfs etc etc. New models will no doubt arrive in the future. For more information click on the GT12 link at the top of the page.
!/12th Electric Oval Racing (Not currently run)
These cars are based on the full size oval racers, either Hot Rods, Saloons, F1 Stock Cars or Bangers. These are very similair to the Mardave Circuit Cars, same sort of cost and equipment required.
1/10th Electric Off Road
Dunfermline District Radio Car Club has an outdoor section that currently run organised club race meetings for electric 1/10th scale off road cars. There two types of racing outdoors, 2 wheel drive and 4 wheel drive. The 2 wheel drive cars are faster in a straight line than 4 wheel drive, but tend to loose out on corners, with an inability to "put the power down" on corners. If you want a car which is cheaper to buy and maintain, but is just as competitive within its class, then 2 wheel drive should be considered. To go racing with a competitive 2 wheel drive car is approximately £250.
Currently we just organise electric off road racing.
Tamiya M Class
These cars are a low cost formula, they are 1/12th scale but slightly larger than a GT12. They race on rubber tyres, with a restricted set of rules to keep the cost down.
1/10th Touring Cars
These cars are highly complex models of TOCA British Touring Cars, having as many opportunities to modify different setup options as on a full size race car. The cars have front and rear differentials just like your road car. The differentials can be modified by adjusting the slippage, as well as using different greases on the drive plates. The cars can also have different wheel bases, optional anti-roll bars as well as altering the various pick up points for the track rods. The cars also use oil filled shock absorbers, which can be altered by changing the pick up points, as well as changing the oil inside the shock body. The piston used inside the shock body can also be changed allowing for different rates of compression. The shock absorbers also have a coil spring on the outside of the shock body which can be altered to give different rates. This is just some of the different mechanics involved in setting up the cars to handle the tracks laid out to race on. On top of all this, you have to choose a tyre, with many options available. At the end of the day, you have a very complex car, which requires the best motors and batteries to gain an advantage over your competitors. What mustn’t be forgotten is that, just because you spend a lot of money on the car, this does not guarantee a top result, as in many cases, a slower car which is setup better, will beat a faster car which is badly setup.
1/12th LMP Circuit
This class of racing is probably one of the oldest in the country and started off way back in the 1970’s. The cars we race today are 1:12th scale replicas of the modern day Le Mans prototype sports cars such as the Bentley and the Audi.
The cars are of a simple design but feature the use of latest materials such as carbon fibre and titanium. This makes them very lightweight which gives them their incredible speed and acceleration, making them probably the fastest of any of the electric classes of racing.
These cars are extremely fast and agile, this is not a beginners formula.
The club uses the MyLaps RC4 decoder, currently all red genuine transponders work with this version. The newer MRT clone also works, bu not the original version. We see genuine PURCY RC4 transponders at the club, these have unique numbers world wide, although a little more expensive compared to the MRT clone, they are unique, and will work going forward. We are already aware that the MRT clone will stop working if the decoder is updated, and with new decoders only coming with new firmware installed, the MRT's will stop working at some point in the future.
Your first nights
racing……..What do I do?
Welcome to radio control car racing
This information sheet is to
help the new and not so new member to understand how the club is
Membership of our club costs £11
per year (payable in November/December annually). You also
require membership to the British Radio Car Association (BRCA), which
allows members to take part in organised race meetings, and
covers you for 3rd party insurance, this is currently
"Insurance - Full third
party insurance cover when using your model car, providing you
are acting in a responsible and legal way, you are covered
against a claim for damages which results from the operation of
your model car AT ALL TIMES and IN ALL PLACES."
We hope you will enjoy our
sport. The following is a list of DO's and DON'Ts, which will
help you, understand what happens at the club.
If you don't
understand ASK, it doesn’t cost anything.
On arrival at the club
Well you should be there
space/table to use as your pit area. Bring a cover for the
tables, approx. the size of a pasting table. Layout you kit and
start charging batteries for your first race. Take care not to
damage any tables or chairs. Remember to return your table to
where it came from at the end of the night, and put any rubbish
(juice cans etc) in the bins provided.
Ready to go? Now book in:
Right away if possible, but no
later than 18:25. Have your booking in fee with you (£5 for
member, £7 for non-members, £3 juniors & £10 Family) and know what frequencies
you have available for your car / transmitter, and if possible
offer 3 different frequencies (if not using 2.4G) when booking in. Right,
now you are entered for the nights racing you can practice. You
must use the peg for your crystal during practice, these are
kept at the back of the stage, remember to return them when you
Once you hear the announcement
that the heats are up, check what heat you are in, the number
you are, and the crystal you have to use. This information is
shown on the display board at the back of the stage. Get 1 race
number from the tuck shop and stick this to your shell so it can
be seen, also fit the transponder (you will need a
8mm hole in the shell) to your car the race before you are on.
Almost there, when your race is called switch on your
transmitter then car. Put your car on the starting line and
stand on the stage. Listen for the start signal……. And
you're off. GOOD LUCK.
When the race is
over switch off your car then the transmitter.
Return your transponder to the tuck shop and go back to the
track to marshal before the start of the next race. After the
race you marshal is finished, the rest of the night is yours. If
you do have to marshal a car, get to the car as quickly and as
possible, fix the car (do not touch the wheels) and get back to
the side of the track to your marshal point as soon as possible.
Remember once you step inside the boundry of the track you are
no longer insured, you must judge it is safe to assist a car. You will normally get three heats plus a final.
After the heats and assuming
your car has survived the night, you can get ready for your last
race of the night. Grading you into a final is done by computer,
which selects everyone's best time and places them in order,
with the fastest time (most laps in 5 minutes) at the top of the
list. This list is then split into groups, usually the same
number, as there were heats. When the final list is posted on
the computers, it is up to you to check what car number and crystal
frequency you require (you may have to change) for your final.
Get your new number if required from the tuck shop, as well as
your transponder the race before yours. When your final is
called get ready as in the heats. If
you are not ready for the final, the race will start without
Remember, when you finish your
final, RETURN YOUR TRANSPONDER, DON'T GO HOME WITH IT.
Help us clean up and put the
track away. Don't just rush off home. Remember, the quicker it's
all away, the quicker everyone gets home.
ABOVE ALL, ENJOY YOURSELF,
AND WE'LL SEE YOU NEXT WEEK.